One of the few downsides of our trip was that Dad caught a cold shortly after arriving in Scotland - apparently the same incessant coughing cold that has been going around at home. Wayne and I also caught it after about a week, and by this point we were all coughing a fair bit. This caused us to make a short trip to the pharmacy for cough drops after breakfast before we departed Tobermory.
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We drove South and stopped at the ruins of Aros Castle. It was an "enter at your own risk" castle and required quite a climb up a hill, so Mom sensibly watched us climb around on the ruins. |
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From there we continued South to Craignure, where we stopped at Torosay castle, but decided not to go in at that time. Instead, we headed further South. On this route, we came to a big black Highland cow that was walking right by the side of the road. We pulled up right next to it and I rolled down the window trying to get a photo. It was fine at first, but then he got spooked and started running like mad, just parallel with the road. We realized we were lucky it didn't attack the car. There were lots of cows in the field it finally settled into. |
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We took a very steep, winding coastal road to Carsaig, hoping the Carsaig arches were visible without a long hike. They were not, but the old port was picturesque, as was the drive. The road was very narrow, with very few passing places, so meeting cars was a real challenge. We just reached Bunessan in time to have a bit to eat (leek and potato soup) before they closed. From there we headed to southern Mull and abandoned our car to take the ferry to Iona.
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Our lodging at Iona was disappointing - it was advertised as a B&B and was closer to a hostel. This wouldn't have been bad, except the prices were B&B prices. There were 2 toilets for 8 double (plus) rooms, and only one shower. The breakfasts were continental.
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Despite this, we were delighted to be on Iona. We walked up to the Abbey, noticing the huge number of lambs along the way - they were all out playing and bleating. When we got to the abbey, we found out that they were having an 11:30 pm Easter eve service that evening, and Wayne and I decided to attend. |
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We were quite impressed by the abbey. The cloisters are intricately carved, with themes down each aisle. (Pillars with birds on one aisle, flowers on another, etc.) The church itself is elegant, and has a quietness to it that we have seldom observed. It was easy to sit and contemplate here. The surrounding countryside of green hills and rocks, plus brilliantly-blue water, and lots of sheep and birds around adds to the peace of the place.
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We had dinner at the Martyr's Bay pub across the street from our B&B, which had excellent food, especially the salmon.
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At 11:00, Wayne and I headed out to the evening service. It is perfectly dark on Iona at night, and we hadn't brought our normal flashlight. We couldn't see where we were going, but eventually managed to get there. The service was started in near-darkness, with readings and a haunting chant-like song recurring about Jesus being a fire that burns forever. There were times of prayer and silence. At one point, all light was completely extinguished. Then a single candle was brought out into the middle of the altar area, I think right at midnight. Each of us had been given a candle before the service, and several ushers lit candles from the main candle and started passing the light through the church, very slowly. Each person would pass their light to another person, and gradually the whole church was brilliantly lit, totally by candle light. At this point, we were singing, and various people came out and unshrouded various parts of the church that had been draped in black. They brought out all the Easter decorations, from flowers to banners, and decorated the whole church as part of the service. Then everyone sang an Alleluia, and slowly departed from the church into the cloisters.
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When we reached the cloisters, the candles were collected, but no one wanted to go home, everyone was feeling so joyful and connected, so we stayed and wished people a happy Easter. It was one of the most joyful and meaningful services I have ever attended.
We walked home in the dark, but stopped at the pier (which is lit) and took off our shoes and waded into the cold Atlantic. Wayne picked up an Iona rock for me. It was a beautiful way to end the day.